Eating Out: Mary’s Brunch at St. Regis Abu Dhabi

For many, many residents of Abu Dhabi and Dubai, brunching (on a Friday, not Sunday) is a favourite pastime, and this Friday, we visited the St. Regis Abu Dhabi for their indulgent Mary's brunch, after Bloody Mary, a famous cocktail said to have been invented in St. Regis New York’s King Cole Bar in 1934.

Despite its glossy and contemporary, if unspiring, façade, the hotel’s interior is decidedly St. Regis – opulent and classic with striking, grand chandeliers and intricate décor – a design that some may find too overwhelming yet seem to befit the taste of their local clientele, and the Terrace, where the brunch was served, is no less fancy, although refreshingly adopts a richer palette of colours, exuding an elegant yet relaxed ambience.

The buffet itself was really vast, occupying not only the main dining area, but stretched outdoor and even further to the adjoining anteroom of the lobby bar (more on this later). The stations included bread, seafood, mezze, international appetizers and soup, carvery, international main courses, BBQ/grill, scallops, foie gras, and (hold your breath) desserts. There were also two bars (indoor and outdoor), plus a roving bar-on-a-trolley that wandered in case you are too stuffed to move from your chair. There was also a large playing area (with kids buffet) at the end of the restaurant for those with the little ones. What we found particularly interesting was the use of the centrepiece terrace fountain as an ice “bucket” where bottled drinks are chilled. Surely enough many guests took a snap of this unusual feature.

The weather was cloudy but still quite pleasant so we opted to sit outside, just like everybody else, although the indoor seating seemed equally comfortable too. The only problem with dining alfresco was the flies, which, while not that many in numbers, were quite annoying indeed (and definitely not an experience one would expect from a St. Regis establishment).

Soon after we were seated, a waitress offered us a glass of Bloody Mary (non-alcoholic option available) served in a champagne flute, as a complimentary welcome drink. I opted for the original version, while my friend went for the virgin one and both of us found it too sweet. It was not a big deal for us, though, as we were so excited to ambush the buffet!

Our first stop was the (cold) seafood station, where piles and piles of mollusks (oysters, snails) and crustaceans (lobsters, crabs, prawns, crayfish) were spread generously. Unfortunately, no sushi was in sight, a bit unusual since sushi has gained its place as a buffet standard in town, but with oysters and lobsters around us, we really could not care less.

The oysters, by the way, were of good quality considering they were served as a buffet offering, but the lobsters and snails were on the tough side. As for the crayfish, well, it was my first time eating one so it was just quite an interesting experience for me (to be honest, I was perhaps just too intimidated by their creepy lobster-like shape and piercing stare!)

Next up were the appetizers, which were strangely enough split into two sections - Arabic and international - with the drinks bar and carvery station separating the two. The Arabic station was easily spotted because it was right next to the seafood station, but the international one was far flung on the other side of the restaurant, as if it was an afterthought. Now I am not a big fan of Arabic appetizers (mezzes), but I think the Arabic fattouch salad (the only thing I tried, and a personal favourite) had a nice balance between the tangy dressing, the refreshing greens, and the crispy pita. Another thing that I liked about the mezzes section was the presentation of the dips, which were served in small glasses (instead of on a serving dish), making them look more appetizing and less messy. The international appetizers were also displayed in a creative and appealing manner, and everything I tried was quite good (the mussel was a winner - plump and lovely), save the baby octopuses which were again tough and chewy.

The main course selection was also quite nice. Apart from the roasts (beef with jus and Yorkshire pudding, baby lamb, and poultry), there were also ouzi, butter chicken masala (mild and creamy), seafood paella (tasty and rich), braised beef (not bad), whole salmon (poached?), seabass, and a few others. The roast beef was lovely and the salmon so too, albeit too rich and fatty for my taste. As mentioned, there were live cooking stations outdoor (although not always manned) – BBQ/grill (not bad at all), foie gras (nice and well presented), and scallops (another one well done), and of course you can gulp all these as much as you wish!

Last but not least was the dessert buffet, which occupied (hold your breath again…) the entire anteroom of the adjoining lobby bar! Fine, fine, one side of the room was dedicated for cheese, but still, it was like a sanctuary for those with a sweet tooth! The desserts were very, very pleasing to the eye (even for me, a dessert-skipper) – playful and full of colours. In fact, as I was carefully deliberating, there were two ladies ooh-aah-ing for some good few minutes observing these gorgeous sweet little treats, clearly trying desperately to appease the craving within. There were no tags, however, so you were left with your own visual judgment, but everything I picked (except the pretentious jellied berries) turned out OK, if a tad too sweet (tone this down with some latte or tea).

Stuffed and merry, we continued our pursuit of happiness to the hotel's Nation Riviera Beach Club (access included in the package), located right across the road and connected to the main building via an underpass). The beach club was what one would expect from St. Regis – well-maintained, clean, and stylish. There was also a smallish but seemingly well-equipped exercise room, a sauna, and temperature-controlled outdoor swimming and whirlpools. The beach closes at sunset, but the pools are open until 8 PM. And in case you feel hungry again after some good exercising (or just because), dining service is available here too.

Now this is what I would call indulgence!

LIKE: The food selection and the overall food quality, the posh yet relaxed ambience, a dedicated (large) kids area & the complimentary beach pass that follows (plus free WIFI!)

DISLIKE: The hit-and-miss service, especially when we had to draw the staff’s attention (worst case: our waiter suddenly fleed after handing over the credit card machine for PIN and never returned). Once you manage to get served, though, they would take care of you well. The buffet lay out was also a bit confusing, although the hostess would give you an orientation beforehand.

PRICE: AED 295 with unlimited soft drinks, AED 425 with wine, beer, and Bloody Mary, or AED 525 with all the above and free-flowing champagne. Not the lowest in the market, but gracefully justified by the upgraded buffet selection and the complimentary beach pass. Watch out for seasonal deals!

DETAILS: www.stregisabudhabi.com/en/forms/brunch

DATE OF VISIT: 5 December 2014

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